Monday 19 December 2011

Canon 100mm f/2.8 EF Macro Lens USM

!±8± Canon 100mm f/2.8 EF Macro Lens USM

Brand : Canon | Rate : | Price : $539.99
Post Date : Dec 19, 2011 15:00:34 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • 3-group floating system results in excellent delineation at all focusing distances
  • Ring USM for silent and high-speed AF, and manual focus

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Canon 100mm f/2.8 EF Macro Lens USM

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Tuesday 13 December 2011

Geraldine Allen - Fine Art Photographer, Creating Wondrous Images With Digital Photography Art

!±8± Geraldine Allen - Fine Art Photographer, Creating Wondrous Images With Digital Photography Art

This is the first in a series of profiles of photographers from various parts of the imaging spectrum. In the future we will shine the light on news photographers, commercial photographers, nature photographers and so on in order to give you the digital photographer some valuable insights to help make your images better.

Geraldine Allen is our first subject artist in the spot light. Initially trained in art history and graphic design in the UK; Geraldine gained valuable experience in aesthetics and design principles. Later in life she undertook study of Psychology and graduated with a Bachelor of Science Honors degree. However, Geraldine's long time interest and passion for photography drew her back. Enthused by the possibilities brought about by Adobe Photoshop in its early days of development, she was soon absorbed by experimenting with digitized photographic collages. It was then she decided to return to Salisbury College in the UK to formalize her experience and update her knowledge of the visual media industry.

Geraldine studied Creative Digital Arts to familiarize herself with industry standard multimedia software, and wishing to focus on still imaging, then chose to complete her BA (Honors) in PhotoMedia (Photography). Whilst computer manipulation was becoming increasingly popular, she chose to experiment [and now favors] "in camera" effects.

When did your "aha" moment arrive; the time when you knew that your affinity for photography could take you further regarding your creative and professional career? "I took a candid shot of my teenage son one day when I just happened to be at an elevated height; the combination of height, the long lens, and the way I had composed his posture in the frame brought an interesting result and I thought then that there are so many variables and I would never get bored if I did this for a living. I had always enjoyed photography but I didn't really learn much until digital came along. All of a sudden I learned so fast because the results were instant and I could relate which mistakes were associated with which controls."

Do you prefer total control over your photographic subjects or do you sometimes shoot natural non-studio images? "I don't have a preference. I am so passionate about photography and there are so many different aspects that I find it impossible to hold favoritism. I have to separate photography into genres and I take a different approach according to that genre. For example, creative photos are pre-conceived in the mind of the photographer/artist, so it does require the subject to be set up and controlled - to a degree. Although studio controlled images dominate my light painted portfolio, I often leave people as subjects to position themselves. The picture aims to portray a little essence of their natural character. I do help them with ideas if they are stuck though, usually by distracting them with conversation and saying "hold it there" when I think a particular posture, expression or mannerism would work well for the picture.

For nature pictures I rarely control anything except perhaps using a little fill flash or a reflector in conjunction with the available light. I make a conscious effort not to interfere with a natural scene as I wish to document it as real and naturally as possible. Having said that I must confess I can't help moving obtrusive litter, sticks or stones from the frame."

Have you ever had a mentor who had an impact on your style and art? "I received an awful lot of support from a wonderful tutor called Ian Smith at Salisbury College in the UK. Whilst I was given endless encouragement to experiment in whichever way I liked, I was also taught to question everything and to give that experimentation some decisive direction. I was to ask myself what my pictures were trying to communicate, and to plan them with specific intention and aims. In the final year at Salisbury College I reached the dreaded stage where I was forced to choose one field of specialization. God forbid, how was I to make a single choice when I loved all and sundry from traditional to completely abstract and contemporary? I remember actually struggling to hold back tears when it came to the point of my having to drop some genres. I was a cop-out really because I chose to stick with two fields instead of one; fine art and nature, and then I used a unifying concept to put them both in my final portfolio!

I was also privileged enough to work with landscape photographer Charlie Waite in his studio for some months. Although practicalities of work and business dominated our concerns, I observed his attitudes toward his projects and indeed within his natural day-to-day practicalities. If I had to choose one primary point that I will always remember, it would be how he would look at the sky and all around whenever he stepped outdoors. He would immediately and instinctively study the light and how it fell upon subjects in his immediate surroundings, no matter where he was or what he was doing. You could say he was obsessed with light! So, he taught me the most valuable lesson of all; to study the natural laws of light, how it naturally affected the world around and how different it looked according to the various conditions."

Your best advice for budding digital photographers? "Experiment, and then experiment some more! Make full use of manual controls instead of sticking with the safe Auto mode. Don't just refer to the manual when you are stuck on how to operate a basic control, but read it all from front to back and then test out each and every advanced control. That way you get to know your camera thoroughly, and you may happen upon some interesting effects. Try different levels of fill flash, use the white balance, and test the effects of speed/aperture on depth of field. Oh, and look at possible uses for any mistakes! I have been known to use prior unintentional mistakes, as deliberate controlled effects at a later date."

What kind of digital camera gear do you favor? "Predominantly, I am a digital SLR user of the Canon variety. I just like the look, the feel and the performance of Canon. A Canon feels right in my hand so what more can I say?

Currently I am shooting with a Canon D60, which I was very happy to own when they were first released. Unfortunately 6 months down the line the 10D was released with a substantial drop in price to boot. Now of course there is the 20D too! Such are the agonies of being a die-hard techie fiend. I use only fixed focal length lenses, having found the 'ever-practical' zoom to let me down with zoom creep on long exposures."

Currently Geraldine is using four lenses: a 15mm f/2.8 fisheye, a 35mm f/2, a 100m f/2.8 Macro, and a 200mm f/2.8 L - all Canon EF. Of course using these lenses on a DSLR mean the focal length is longer than using on a film SLR due to the size of the sensor, which is why the fisheye is not truly 'fisheye' but just very wide, and the 35mm is used as the standard workhorse lens - the equivalent of a 50mm. Shooting an awful lot of nature pictures, her 100mm macro lens has proved a wise investment, allowing her to gain that extra close distance both for macro work and longer distance shots.

Geraldine says "I have never had much desire to shoot very long distance. I tried a 300mm 'L' glass once, but sold it within a fortnight. The thing was a monster, and at f5.6 widest aperture, it was just not fast enough coupled with the focal length and weight of the thing. I simply could not achieve sharp enough pictures. Rather than bring faraway subjects close to me, I prefer bringing tiny things into my visual plane, so that I can study each tiny little detail. I therefore have a natural affinity for Macro photography and Photomicrography. I use an IMXZ Microscope with a zoom factor from x10 - x40 for real tiny subjects, or when I want to reveal what the eye cannot normally see, but with an aperture of f0, I am inevitably dissatisfied with the lack of sharpness throughout. Quite often I will just use the 'sweet spot' area and crop down afterward. I also have a bellows for an FD lens but I rarely achieve a satisfactory result owing to the lack of mobility and adaptability. I would really enjoy the more mobile MP-E65 but unfortunately it's not within the budget at the present time.

I missed the medium format experience altogether, but what a great discovery it was to find out I could afford a large format system! I ended up with a 4x5 Toyo View camera with a monorail extension, dark cloth, lots of double dark slides, an Schneider Symmar-S 150mm f5.6, and two boxes of Fuji Provia RDP II, all for £400!!! The film and processing costs have been adding up since, and the results still look plainly 'LF novice'. "

The only other shooting equipment I have are two strobes, a 1000 watt halogen lamp, a Canon Speedlite 550EX, softbox, reflectors and stands. These are not used very often, but are on standby for the odd studio request. Generally though I prefer natural light and natural settings.

Post shoot editing of course requires a digital darkroom. I use a fast processor Dell PC with tons of RAM, a Mac Powerbook G4, an Olympus Camedia Dye Sub printer, a Canon S9000 inkjet, and an Epson Perfection 4870 scanner for my 4x5 film. Let's also not forget that king of king piece of software - Adobe Photoshop. I just upgraded to CS and I'm not disappointed. ooops... I forgot to mention my trusty set of three halogen torches for light painting.... nothing special or expensive, just normal household torches of various strength." Says Ms Allen.

Geraldine has always been intrigued by the magical, unique and otherworldly qualities found in the work of photographers like Robert Damachy, Julia Margaret Cameron, Diane Arbus, and Sarah Moon. Specific influences on her photographic development with her light painting have been Berthold Steinhilber, Jorg Grundler, and Diana Thorneycroft.

If you visit her site you will see some of the wonderful macro photography Geraldine captures. Many of those are floral based subject matter. She says "for floral macros, I like to use extremely limited depth of field. This means I inevitably make use of a longer focal length [100mm], the closest shooting distance possible and a wide aperture [often f2]. This usually means the shutter speed is quite fast because there is plenty of light entering the lens. But, that does not mean I do not need a tripod in a natural setting. Often I like to have only the tiniest element in focus, which means handheld shooting is a definite no-no, as the plane of focus can slip at the slightest movement [in the camera or subject]. If the element to be focused on is flat, then generally it is easier to achieve sharpness where I want it. However if it is curved or rounded I try to make sure the camera is positioned at such an angle as to allow the element to be parallel with the back of the camera so that as much of the element as possible is on the same plane as the sensor or film back."

You can see the portfolio of her fine art photography at her web site: www.photo-art-gallery.com


Geraldine Allen - Fine Art Photographer, Creating Wondrous Images With Digital Photography Art

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Friday 4 November 2011

Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

!±8± Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras


Rate : | Price : $464.00 | Post Date : Nov 04, 2011 23:38:09
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Despite the large maximum aperture, the lens remains compact. Lens group 5 moves for rear focusing, and sharp, crisp pictures are obtained at all apertures. The background blur is ideal for portraits. The USM autofocuses the lens quickly and quietly.

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Friday 21 October 2011

What Equipment Do I Need to Take a Great Portrait?

!±8± What Equipment Do I Need to Take a Great Portrait?

Under a large portrait is still one of the most important skill to have as a photographer. The need for good photos of people will never go away. Whether for weddings, corporate photography and lifestyle, you will always be the question, if people like the images taken of them. In any case, we want to make a start and look at the camera gear I use.

Fortunately, many of us already have the kit needed to make a portrait fabulous. The kit standard lens that comes bundled with mostdigital cameras should be good enough to get you in the ballpark. When I bought my Canon 5d Mk1, I chose the 24mm to 70mm 2.8 lens as my standard lens. For environmental portraits, (when you take a picture of someone and show some of their surroundings) 50mm is an ideal place to start. It has a very similar viewpoint to what we see with our eyes and so gives us a very natural looking environmental portrait. Be careful not to go too wide, say much below 35mm as the wider angle produces unflattering distortions. The longer end of the zoom range is great for three quarter length/head and shoulder shots. This combined with a wide aperture can separate the subject from the background by throwing the background nicely out of focus.

Although the standard zoom lens is excellent for portraits, most professional photographers prefer something a little longer. I personally use the Canon 100mm 2.8 Macro lens which is out of this world for head shots, the fast aperture blurring the background and the telephoto really flatters the sitter. I think anything above 100mm is too much unless your going for a full length shot and you want that perspective compression effect on the background, say on a tree lined avenue or set of columns.

Probably the most favored of all portrait lenses is the 85mm. Luckily they are pretty affordable for the 1.8 variants, though if your a Canon user the ultimate is the 85mm 1.2. It really is a monster of a lens with a price tag to match. One thing to remember is to adjust the focal lengths if you are on a smaller sensor. The crop factor is normally 1.3 or 1.6. So a 50mm lens becomes a 80mm lens on a camera with a crop factor of 1.6.

Now let us take a look at lighting and exposure. Unlike most other subjects, bright sunshine does not make for flattering portraits. It produces harsh unpleasant shadows and causes the subject to squint. If you must shoot in the midday sun, look for some shade in which to place the subject. It will be a lot easier to get a good shot and the light is far more controllable. One of my favorite techniques is to sit the subject on the ground, a few feet under the branches of a tree. I then place a white reflector on the floor in front of them, this bounces light into the shadows that are typically under the eyes and nose. The light coming in from behind you will give you a lovely catchlight in their eyes and you will get an excellent portrait.

Another popular technique is to place the subject with their back to the sun. This avoid the horrible shadows but you now have another problem, exposure. If the sun is behind the subject the camera can get fooled into underexposing the face. In this scenario I either use spot metering or dial in some exposure compensation, a stop or so should do it.


What Equipment Do I Need to Take a Great Portrait?

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Sunday 16 October 2011

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

!±8± Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

Brand : Canon | Rate : | Price : $569.00
Post Date : Oct 16, 2011 07:01:16 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

L1) CANON 100MM F/2.8 MACRO USM EF

  • 100mm macro USM lens with f/2.8 maximum aperture for Canon SLR cameras
  • Secondary diaphragm blocks stray light at f/2.8 for increased contrast
  • Ultra-sonic monitor provides outstanding autofocusing speed at all distances
  • 3-group floating system for exceptional close-up performance; full-time manual focus
  • Measures 3.1 inches in diameter and 4.7 inches long; weighs 21.1 ounces; 1-year warranty

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Monday 10 October 2011

Agility Dog Photography

!±8± Agility Dog Photography

Agility photography is not the easiest to master skills. To change the speed of the dog, along with the rate at which the dogs in the ring, it means that the photographer must be on the ball all the time, and prepared for any eventuality.

Equipment: I personally work with a digital SLR, because the settings are easier to control. You must remove the control of shutter speed to blur the dog. A speed of 1/800th be required to go up to 1/1200th, if circumstances permit. A quickfocusing lens is necessary because the speed of the top dogs. Range on the lens must have a minimum of 100 mm, and usually no more than 200 mm. This is due to the size of the rings.

Location: Where you position yourself in the ring is important and can make or break your pictures. Unless you are very lucky, will not be allowed in the ring, and must be on the outside. Ideally, you want to get a position for a jump at an angle of 45 degrees, to be with a jumpWalking Tall, and an obstacle "other." Various obstacles are things such as tires, dog walk, A-frames, cards, etc. Sit on the side not to jump. This makes recording nearly impossible to achieve.

Works: When the dogs begin, get your attention first to jump or obstacle. To do so, focusing on the top bar of the jump or the device where you want the dog to catch. With a digital SLR, this is easy to reach by half pressing the shutter button. Then, when the dogPosition to jump, press the shutter button. Remember, because of the speed of the dog, you need the shutter just before the action you want to record release. Then go to the next and the next move. With practice it becomes easier. With the dogs completing the course in about 25 seconds, you begin to learn how to create change with a jump next to a very fast speed.

A few small clues, the help photographers Agility:
Looks like the owners of the course on foot. This isTell them where they are and, most importantly, which side of the jumps that are walking. Never be afraid said before, someone ruined race. We do this all the time, and is used as an excuse. Dogs must be able to complete the course regardless of distractions. If it is a distraction that will tell the judge or ring steward. Get down. Remember, dogs are smaller than humans, and the best recordings to get in depth. Establish, if necessary, or at leastSitting on a low chair. Look at the camera settings to the changing light. This is very important when you are out there.


Agility Dog Photography

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Thursday 6 October 2011

Phoenix P09560 Telephoto Zoom Lens 100-300mm F:5.6-6.7 Canon EOS

!±8±Phoenix P09560 Telephoto Zoom Lens 100-300mm F:5.6-6.7 Canon EOS

Brand : Phoenix
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Oct 06, 2011 05:00:20
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Tuesday 4 October 2011

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Macro Lens 3554B002 With

!±8± Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Macro Lens 3554B002 With


Rate : | Price : $0.00 | Post Date : Oct 04, 2011 10:00:34
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This 'L' series lens is Canon's first mid-telephoto macro lens to include its sophisticated Image Stabilization. With the highest quality optics available, combined with near-silent Ultrasonic focusing and life-size close-up capabilities without an adapter, the EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM is simply unrivalled. Specifications Focal Length & Maximum Aperture: 100mm 1:2.8 Lens Construction:15 elements in 12 groups Diagonal Angle of View: 23.4 degrees Focus Adjustment: Inner focusing system with USM. Full-time manual focus available. Closest Focusing Distance: 0.99 ft./0.3m (maximum close-up magnification: 1x) Filter Size: 67mm Max. Diameter x Length, Weight: 3.1 x 4.8 in./77.7 x 123mm, 22.0 oz./625g

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Saturday 1 October 2011

Canon - Macro lens - 100 mm - f/2.8 USM - Canon EF

!±8±Canon - Macro lens - 100 mm - f/2.8 USM - Canon EF

Brand : Canon
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Post Date : Oct 01, 2011 21:15:07
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The Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Autofocus lens is suitable for macro photography up to life-size (1x) magnification. Inner focusing affords a long working distance of 5.9 inches to infinity.

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Wednesday 28 September 2011

Canon Rebel Portrait Lens - Which goal is better for portraits Canon Rebel?

!±8± Canon Rebel Portrait Lens - Which goal is better for portraits Canon Rebel?

Suppose you have only your first DSLR and a Canon Rebel. Now you are a professional, or at least a semi-pro. This is what everyone around you thinks.

And what about pictures? What are the requirements for a portrait lens Canon Rebel?

Each photographer is a portrait photographer at some point. Your family is assumed to have a large portrait shooters. Even more important for them to be as cheap labor.

It 'just a fact. When people see that the monsterCamera, they just assume that you are a professional and you can take any kind of image excellence.

Do not tell them they are just the beginning. Hold the camera against your face and awesome to let you think you are great your chosen hobby.

Here are the two most important things to consider for a decent head shot to maintain.

First, you want to stay away from the subject from any point 6-20 feet. Closer than 6 meters, and you will see some distortion inthe body.

Secondly, you should choose the widest aperture possible as possible, as of f/2.8 / 4 A grand opening will result in a reduced depth of field, which means that the level of focus a few inches (hit the face in the event of a head) in front of and behind the lens of the area is limited. The object of a shallow depth of field is a blurred background.

Choose a goal that can achieve this simply means looking in the camera bag or camera, because you can alreadyhave a good goal.

Your Canon Rebel has a sensor that the lens focal length multiplied by a factor of 1.6. So if you have a 100mm portrait lens Canon, actually taking a picture with an effective focal length of 160mm (which is 100 x 1.6).

A head shot with a photographic surface usually about 3 to 4 feet tall. Taking pictures with a 100 mm lens would be set at about 15 meters from the subject ... perfect.

At a minimum, the focal length could be used to achieve the sameStrike would be a 50 mm lens with you about 6 feet away from the position of the subject. A Canon EF-S 60 mm macro lens will do the job, too, and is made specifically for a rebel.

The perfect portrait lens Canon Rebel could be a longer focal length. In particular, a 70-200mm zoom works very well because of how totally awesome are the pictures. It's actually what many consider the Canon lens "flagship". If you are one of the 70-200mm lenses (and there are five of them now), itdetermined.

However, many photographers think that a fixed focal length of the best portraits (one has only one main lens focal length and not as a zoom) is done. There is no argument that a great head shot with a 100 mm or 135 mm fixed focal length can first be taken. These are excellent lenses. But they are also more expensive than others.

Assuming the budget to play a role in his decision, remember that the focal length can be anywhere between 50 mm and above. It 'really your position (distancethe subject), the prospect of recording, and the quality of the lens, making the shot.

If you are under a lot of portraits, then a high quality lens with the right focal length and the opening will be a good investment. However, if you have no intention of head shots that you want the most important form of photography, you could have a lens that meets your needs for any images that you plan to leave twice as large and a dress Canon lens Rebel Portrait. get


Canon Rebel Portrait Lens - Which goal is better for portraits Canon Rebel?

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